Early season ice in the San Juan's

The ice climbing conditions in the San Juan's are excellent for this time of the year. We have had colder temps this late autumn and a steady cycle of storms to coat the backcountry in powder.  Recently, Kevin and I sampled the local classic Dexter Falls.  We may have even been the first party on it this season; the ice showed no evidence of previous traffic and was super sticky.

Late last week, Rigging for Rescue conducted a 2-day workshop for the Ouray Ice Park ice farmers.  We focused on work at height risk management considerations, a variety of descent/ascent systems for use with equipment, and a number of companion rescue scenarios for rescuing a fellow worker (or climber) while on rope.  Check out the conditions in the Ouray Ice Park - a very good start to the ice making this year.

Climber pickoff

Practicing personal on-rope systems in the Ouray Ice Park

Swinging leads on Dexter Falls

On lead on Dexter

Sticky ice on the final pitch - Dexter Falls

The whirlwind that was autumn, 2015

As I write this entry I find it very hard to believe that we are into December already.  Time marches by at the same rate for all, but it definitely feels like it moves along faster when you are busy.

This past autumn had Rigging for Rescue instructors all across the US and Canada conducting training seminars.  A couple of the highlights included return visits to both Yosemite Valley to work with the YOSAR rangers as well as Mount Desert Island, Maine to train with a cross-section of Maine SAR personnel from approximately eight different agencies.

The YOSAR seminar exercises included the 'small teams' San Juan Pickoff, a multi-pitch exercise on Turtleback Dome, a Guiding Line suspension system, and a Kootenay Highline System including the Norwegian Reeve hoisting variation.

San Juan Pickoff

In Maine, the majority of the training areas included some of the spectacular sea cliffs of Acadia National Park.  The photos below are from a day that we spent comparing and contrasting vertical versus horizontal litter orientation.  Of course, both methods have their place in the technical rescue toolbox. There are numerous considerations for choosing one technique versus another.  We explored these considerations and had a great day of training in a very scenic locale.

Guiding Line

Half Dome at dusk

Kootenay Highline System

Acadia National Park

Upper Attendant position

At Great Head cliff

Multi-pitch transition

Huntington

On May 18, a long-standing project of Mike Gibbs and Erik Weihenmeyer came to fruition with a successful ascent of Mt Huntington in the Alaska Range via the West Face Couloir route.  Erik and Mike were joined by Rigging for Rescue instructor Dave Shuman.

Erik is one of the world's most accomplished blind athletes having successfully ascended Mt Everest, the Seven Summits, kayaked the Grand Canyon, and has competed in numerous expedition length adventure races. Erik and Mike's previous climbing adventures include ascents of the ice climb Polar Circus in Canada as well as Bridalveil Falls near Telluride.  This was their first mountaineering trip together.

Huntington involves over 1000 meters of technical climbing up to 90 degree ice and includes the full array of alpine climbing challenges ranging from icefall navigation to ridge climbing and steep ice.  An ascent of Huntington by any route is a hallmark achievement in a mountaineering career. We are proud to have been able to play a part in Erik's successful ascent.

Upon return to our basecamp, Erik stated that it was, "the hardest mountain I have ever climbed."

Berg Heil Erik!

Erik pointing out route at Talkeetna Ranger Station

Mt Huntington - West Face

Dave leading steep ice on Day 1

The 'spacious' alcove bivy

Traversing out of alcove - morning Day 2

Still smiling on Day 2

Erik and Dave on final pitch - Tokositna Glacier below

Erik and Mike on summit - Denali in background

New Research - Aramid Fiber Friction Hitches

At long last we have managed to get our recent research on aramid fiber friction hitches up on our own website.  This research was conducted over the course of multiple testing sessions spread out over approximately 18 months.  The testing was limited to two aramid fiber friction hitch make/models: the Bluewater VT Prusik and the Sterling RIT 900 cord (aka Hollow Block).

The test series included both slow pull examinations as well as drop testing.

The research was initially presented at ITRS in Golden, CO in November, 2014.

The website posting can be found on www.riggingforrescue.com.  Click on our "Research" link, then select "Recent Projects", followed by "Aramid fiber friction hitches."

The sample of PPT slides include the raw data summaries as well as some video clips. What you won't find included are any of our conclusions and/or recommendations. Those thoughts lend themselves to the full presentation narrative in a face-to-face setting.

We hope you find the research useful and informative. 

Ice is nice

The winter is in full swing in the San Juan's and the back country ice climbing conditions are about as good as they ever get for this early in the season.  Many of the classics like Ames Ice Hose, The Ribbon, Stairway, and Skylight have seen numerous ascents in the past couple of weeks.

The mini drought of the past 3 weeks has created benign avalanche conditions and great access to some of the more remote and exposed back country routes in the range.  The snow storm coming in presently will change that access, but we sure have enjoyed it while it lasted!

2015 dates for Waterfall Ice Workshop

It feels odd to be typing this while outfitted in shorts and flip flops. However, winter is never too far away in the San Juan's regardless of the season.

In 2015, we will be hosting two different sets of dates for our open enrollment Waterfall Ice Climbing and Rescue Workshop.  The first one will be 18-23 January and the second 22-27 February.  They are essentially 5-day workshops with an evening get together on the Sunday prior to the M-Fr training.

The workshop focuses on small team tactics, companion rescue skill sets, and of course the myriad of considerations for the medium of waterfall ice including movement skills, anchoring, and avalanche awareness - just to name a few.

The workshop can also be arranged on contract on mutually agreeable dates/locations. If your organization has 4 or more participants, consider contracting your own private course. We hope to see you at an offering in 2015!

Multi-pitch lowers with litter

Main and Belay on multi-pitch exercise

Rigging for Rescue in the East!

We are very excited to announce that this autumn we will be hosting an open enrollment seminar in the Shawangunk Mountains. Rigging for Rescue, in conjunction with the Mohonk Preserve, will be offering our very first East Coast-based open enrollment seminar in The Gunks. Long regarded as the East Coast’s finest rock climbing destination, the Gunks is also a fantastic training ground for high angle technical rescue.  

On two previous occasions we have conducted seminars on contract in the Gunks. The rock quality is amazing. The variety of site locations and the close proximity to New Paltz makes it a superb destination for technical rope rescue.

The dates of the seminar are October 13-19, 2014.  The autumn is a beautiful time of the year to visit upstate New York.  The Gunks are located 6 miles west of New Paltz, NY and are approximately 1.5-2 hours driving time from airports in either Albany, NY or Hartford, CT. Please contact us directly for registration information and availability:  info@riggingforrescue.com. 

Edge transition with litter in the Gunks

High Exposure

Enjoying the spectacular climbing